Category: Interview

Posted on

How fashion is becoming more inclusive of all gender types

Exploring the representation of gender in the fashion industry and if it allows people to express their identity.

A growing number of people are questioning social constructs, including gender, and adopting identities outside the traditional ‘male’ and ‘female’. This is often carried out within fashion and beauty, with progressions being made towards less binary limits. Without social constraints on clothing, freely purchasing fashion items lets everyone enjoy the experience intended by the high street and high end. There’s just the question of whether labels prevent this experience.

Young people are seemingly more inclusive and celebratory of diversity in gender dressing as unisex clothing is becoming more popular with generation Z.  Collusions, a gender neutral line,  became the fourth best-selling brand on Asos after its first week of launch in October. Straying away from the impression that customers should specify gender when buying clothes as retail is usually categorised in male and female sections. With an understanding of gender identities, there should be – and is starting to be – an adaption to different body shapes and sizes.

In conversation with Gab Hernandez de Leon, an LGBTQ activist, he discloses the reality of fashion for trans and non-binary people and was clear that fashion has always helped him express his gender. However, is “confused by the way that non-binary clothing is all about fashion with “no gender”, although, this is an actual gender.” Suggesting that the market may not fully understand the way these particular individuals are choosing to express themselves.

Gab Hernandez de Leon (LGBTQ activist)

 

“Fashion can 100% have a negative impact on people. Not being able to fit into your size because your waist is too big or because your shoulders are too small.” Giving the impression that a lot of fashion is designed for the majority with slight regard to varying body shapes of ‘petite’, ‘tall’, or ‘plus size’. He also gives an insight to how “labels can help sometimes, for example, transgenders will feel accomplished being able to fit into their desired gender clothing.” This suggests that the balance of fashions impact on identity is completely personal and down to the individual. The way one person might perceive clothing could be completely different to the next; in the same way male and female identifiers experience fashion, it is down to personality and taste. 

Popular high street brands, such as Topshop and Urban Outfitters, removed gendered changing rooms last year. Providing a more positive outlook for young people to experience fashion. New brands, along with well-established names, have also taken wind of developments in society and responded to this with more androgynous styling, campaigns, shows and collections. This normalises the idea of fashion obtaining no gender, with the concept becoming part of fashion values. Catwalks are now beginning to blur the lines of gender as well, with a mix of styles, materials and models. Giving the opportunity to eradicate strong labelling as society grows.

Posted on

THE THREE EMOTIONAL STAGES OF FEMALE HAIR LOSS

 

Your hair is something you don’t realise you rely on for all your confidence until it’s gone. Your hair is something that makes you fit in with society. Your hair is something that expresses your personality, your femininity. Yet with this being said, alopecia is still one of the most under-represented diseases within the modelling world, with only 2% of models being booked with known alopecia.

So, with no representation and no-one to look up to, Hannah who was diagnosed with alopecia when she was just ten has had a tough time of it. From feeling like an “alien”, to being asked how her “treatment” was going, Hannah explains to us the three emotional stages of hair loss she has had to face.

“Yes, I have alopecia. Have I ever let it stop me from doing anything? No.”

All of the photos below were styled, photographed and directed by Fauve Wright in inspiration of Hannahs ‘Three emotional stages of female hair loss’.

STAGE ONE: Alienated from society

“When I lost my hair, I didn’t feel human… I felt like an alien. I got stared at constantly in public, my identity was taken away from me before I even got to develop one. I was ten. I felt like a creature. I hid behind wigs, before I realised enough was enough.”

STAGE TWO:  GOING BARE

“When I stopped wearing my wig it was the most terrifying, scary, experience of my life, but also the most empowering. At the age of ten, I was still getting used to having no hair, so when a lady at the till asked me how my ‘treatment’ was going, it made me feel extremely bad about myself. Women are perceived as ill and weak when bald, yet society accepts it within men.”

STAGE THREE:   Feminine empowerment

“The first thing I started worrying about when I lost my hair was if I would still look like a girl. Can bald still be beautiful? Is anyone going to find me pretty again? You start to look at what else you have to offer. I am an amazing dancer, friend, sister, and what’s on my head has never stopped me doing anything. My alopecia has made me more powerful and feminine than ever, as it has just now made all my other qualities shine. I now think it’s sorta badass.”

 

Words | Photography | Styling | Creative Direction by Fauve Wright – @fauvewrightphotography

 

 

Posted on

The young and diverse on what makes them hopeful for the future

Captured in the streets of London, Newcastle and York.

Imran Suleiman, 21, East London, Photographer.

Describe yourself…I like simple things. Laughing in sync with someone, being alone, or happy dreams that I remember. When do you feel most confident?… When I can be myself around people without judgement floating in the air. Describe your generation...The generation I’m from is the one of trends and deep social comparison. The generation I’m from is one of immigrants and takeaway shops. The generation I’m from is one of nostalgia and the Internet destroying traditional TV. Who do you consider to be the voice of your generation? … I come from a generation where anyone can have a voice because of the Internet, so it’s difficult to pinpoint it on one person. The voices of our generation are the ones we subscribe to and choose to give our time to, rather than 15/20 years ago when we had little choice in whose voices we were listening to, the internet has given us more choice to absorb information on our own accord. What change would you like to see in the world in 2018/19?…I’m not sure. My life is quite trivial and I barely pay attention to politics and the world around me too much so I wouldn’t know how to answer that question. What makes you hopeful for the future? … Accessibility to things and the ability to make and be whoever you are because of the internet and technology. It’s a hopeful time to be an aspiring filmmaker like myself because it’s getting easier and easier to make one. What is the most important thing happening in culture right now?… 6ix9ine is potentially getting a life sentence for pretending to live the life of a gangster when really, he should have been taking care of his daughter and making smarter decisions. Do you feel represented in society?… I come from East London which is a hugely multi-cultural society, even taking London as a whole it is quite a representative of my life and my passions, so I would say so yes. This is your chance to speak out. What have you got to say?… Life after graduation is one of uncertainty, especially for a freelancer like myself trying to financially survive and be happy, but I enjoy the grind and I hope I can be successful in whatever it is that I do.

Simone Watikel, 21, Newcastle, Student.

Describe yourself…I am a creative, conscientious, approachable, self-aware and hardworking young black woman. When do you feel most confident? … I’m a writer and I love to create new articles on my blog page ‘Ethereal Truth’ about many of society’s underlying and ignored issues. So, for me, I’d say that I feel most confident when I’ve produced a new piece. I only put my writing out for praise or critique when I feel proud and happy with it and so, that’s when I’d say I am most confident. When I feel as though I’ve achieved something which will help to positively influence the world and hopefully make even one small change. Describe your generation… I think our generation is very obsessed with social media and technology and as a result, are becoming self-absorbed and more concerned with life on screen, rather the world off-screen. We’re constantly comparing our lives to others and I think this is massively detrimental to the mental health of this generation. Of course, there are many generational activists trying to make a difference, though I think there are also too many people who try to keep up the façade of being ‘woke’ because they see it as trendy. Being ‘woke’ and ‘conscious’ is fashionable on social media, but upholding that image is futile if you aren’t upholding these same ideals and helping to better the world around us. Who do you consider to be the voice of your generation?…l I’m not sure I’d say there is a voice of our generation and I do think that’s a big issue. Our generation is dependant on role models of the past in order to progress. We always refer to our ancestors’ actions in their society, but we too will be ancestors. It’s a cycle and we need to try and create a world that we would be happy for our children to live in. We will be who the future generations look to, to inform their present. Role models of previous generations should definitely have huge influences on the 21st century, but I don’t there is really a voice of my generation that is directly informing us and the situations we are confronted with. What change would you like to see in the world in 2018/19?… I would really like the big issues of racism, sexism, homophobia and colourism – amongst many others – to be expunged. However, hopefully it’s not too cynical to say that I’m not sure this will be accomplished within the next year. What I would really like to see is people being kinder to one another. People are so wrapped up in social media and absorbed in their own lives, that sometimes it becomes easy to overlook or to forget to check in on others. Kindness is free. Check up on your friends and family and don’t be afraid to do a selfless good deed. What makes you hopeful for the future?… I think I’m most hopeful for the future, when I look at the people around me – particularly those on my course – actively trying to make a difference. There is such an emphasis now on allowing all voices, even the oppressed and marginalised, to be heard. Hopefully in the future, with movements like ‘#MeToo’ these voices will not be silenced but will be treated with respect. What is the most important thing happening in culture right now?… I think the most important thing happening in culture right now is that black people are representing themselves in the music industry. They are no longer relying on big music producers to get their name in the charts, but instead, are relying on the support of their community. There’s been a big influx of African music which is frequently played on the radio and its great music of our heritage being widely accepted, as well as seeing how black artists influence other music styles. Do you feel represented in society?… To an extent. Society is very concerned with trying to appear representational and thus, you see more black people on television and in the media, than you would have done 50 years ago. But, I think these representations are still very limiting. Often, the black women portrayed on screenplay into stereotypes, or the media chooses only to include lighter-skinned black women. I recognise that there are more people of colour on our screens, but I think the media need to recognise that the images they are showcasing, are not representative of a variety of people of colour. This is your chance to speak out. What have you got to say?…I really want to emphasise to my generation the importance of voting. In the last referendum, it remained shocking for me to see the lack of 18-24-year-olds who voted. You might not be into politics, but you should be concerned with your future. The things that are currently being discussed by the PM and MP’s will affect us. There were a lot of elderly people who voted in the referendum, but this is not their future. It’s ours. The decisions being made now will affect us, our children and families. Vote.

Angelee Kholia, 22, West London, Magazine Editor.

Describe yourself… Adventurous, fun, creative, willing to try new thingsWhen do you feel most confident? …I feel the most confident and undefeatable when I’ve dressed my best and wearing my favourite clothes. I believe that when you dress your best, you act more out-going and confident. Describe your generation…Often too attached to their phones and devices, and too consumed on modelling themselves to this ideal that celebrities paint on social media. But on a positive note, I’d like to think that a lot of young individuals are using their voice more to fight for things they believe in. Who do you consider to be the voice of your generation?… A few people- Florence Given, Jack Harries, Simran Randawa What change would you like to see in the world in 2018/19?… More changes within governments and companies to combat environmental issues. More social justice for women in the world. But, personally, I would like to see more platforms and programmes in place for graduates. It’s so hard to get a job in this economic climate, that jobs for graduates are limited and opportunities are slim. What makes you hopeful for the future?… Young people using their voices more whether that’s in relation to political, educational or environmental issues. It makes me hopeful that the world will be a progressive and better place in the future, I fully believe in and trust youngsters. What is the most important thing happening in culture right now?… More people of colour and LGBTQ communities getting recognition for their work and gaining more space in the media. It’s great to see! This is your chance to speak out. What have you got to say?… Be true to who you are, it will see you well. There are so many people on this planet but there’s only one of you. Being yourself is unique and will catch the eye of future employers and potential business partners.

Alizeh Shaikh, 23, York, Doctor.

Describe yourself…I always describe myself as a jellyfish, I sort of just float around the earth with no aim except for survival because I’m too sentient for my own good. Every now and again I’ll spot something in the distance that I’m curious about or I’ll create a goal or ambition in my head and push myself to get there. But besides that, I’m just a ‘floater-alonger’ trying to make sense of the strange environment around me. Don’t bother me, and I won’t bother you. When do you feel most confident?…  When I have heels on, or in front of a large audience. I find that putting on an act of confidence always in turn gives me real confidence, a fake it till you make it kind of thing. When I am interacting with somebody who is engaged in what I have to say. There is nothing worse than speaking to somebody who is only physically present, but they’re actually away with the fairies. And I know their lack of interest is a reflection of THEM but it’s difficult to feel confident when somebody doesn’t want to engage with you in any way. When I am with my family. I am most comfortable then, and when I am most comfortable, I am most confident. Describe your generation… I believe my generation counts as the millennials? We are fighters. We are confused, we are poor, we have been degraded and degraded and degraded by past generations so much that we believe we are as useless as we are told. And for a long while we’ve believed we were as lost as we have been told. However, with technology advancing rapidly, and future generations rising to the surface, I think we’re finding our place on this earth and putting our foot down and forging our own paths. It’s difficult to describe an entire generation because that is asking me to describe millions of individuals who are undoubtedly each so unique that every one of those human beings could have a whole biography written about them. So, I think we’re diverse. I also think that we’re a sad generation because there is so much wrong that we can’t seem to unsolve, yet. I think we’re unsupported. I think we’re deserving of something better. I think we’re aware and we’re altruistic and we’re less greedy than past generations have been. I think we’re open-minded and we’re forgiving, and we’re intelligent. And I think that we have so much potential, but we’re just confused. Who do you consider to be the voice of your generation?… There isn’t one person, or three people, or even ten individuals, who stand out to me as spokespeople for my generation. Standing together and standing united is the only way my generation has ever been heard. So all of us. What change would you like to see in the world in 2018/19?… For people to show more compassion and kindness, to themselves, to other human beings, and to the earth and environment they call their home. A shift from the constant need to divide and segregate, to unity and understanding. For there to be a push towards sustainable living and less waste created. What makes you hopeful for the future?…  Seeing altruism in practice. I’ve always thought selfishness is one of humanity’s fatal flaws and so seeing altruistic behaviour makes me believe there’s another way and it’s not just about surviving in a dog-eat-dog world. How many different dairy-free milk’s are available these days and how they’re much more readily available and accessible than a decade ago. More and more people are becoming environmentally aware which gives me hope that we can achieve sustainability and not just destroy the earth we live on in hope that there’s another planet out there for us.When I make eye contact with somebody in the streets and they smile at me. That always makes me feel like there is hope. What is the most important thing happening in culture right now? The slow but sure acceptance of diversity. Causing a parallel shift towards peaceful indifference and peace.Do you feel represented in society?…
I do and I don’t. I think an individual has numerous identities, for example, their gender is one identity they carry, their ethnicity another, their sexuality another, their qualification status another, etc. As somebody who belongs to numerous minorities, I feel under-represented in the society that surrounds me and in the media both locally and globally.However, I also feel like I don’t try hard enough to make my identities known, or to represent my own self in society. I think it’s everybody’s responsibility to find their identity and play a part in representing themselves, there should be no such thing as minorities, if enough people spoke out and enough people were willing to listen to those speaking out, everybody could have a voice and feel represented because THEY would be doing the representing rather than taking a seat back and waiting for other people represent your identity for you. This is your chance to speak out. What have you got to say?… Just a reminder that being kind and being considerate doesn’t cost anything but you reap so much from doing so. You gain patience, and you gain peace, and you gain insight, understanding, perspective, self-restraint. It costs nothing and yet it’s invaluable, so be kind to yourself and to those around you and to the earth that you live on.

Amrit, 21, East London, Student.
(Featured model)

Alicia, 19, South London, Student.
(Featured model)

STYLED/PHOTOGRAPHED BY SALEENA BAZ.

Posted on

Empowering Plus Size Women

“EveryBODY is beautiful and should be celebrated.”

Amy Boyd explores the way plus size women are able find self love and embrace their bodies through fashion.

What do you think of plus size? Fat, unhealthy and gross are all words associated with this term and it is apparent that bigger women do not fit into society’s expectations of the perfect woman. Magazine covers depict slim silhouettes, airbrushed skin, and immaculate bone structure; these qualities are envisioned as being flawlessly beautiful and it is something each and every woman both young and old desires to be. We have been conditioned from a young age to strive for the perfect image of ourselves and when you don’t feel you fit into these almost unobtainable factors we feel lost and unvalued.

Speaking to Megan Scott a primary school assistant, 21 and Lisa Docherty a hair stylist 35 who have a combined age of half a century share their views on the taboo of being sizes 18-26 in 2018.

Do you think society’s views are changing towards plus size women?

Megan: “I do feel like society’s views are changing. I think social media is allowing women to accept their own bodies more and reassuring them that everyone has a different body shape and it is actually considered more unusual to be a size 0.”

 what do you think the future will hold for plus size?

Megan: “I definitely think being plus size is going to become more accepted although I think it will always have a stigma attached to It.”

Do you think the misconception of plus size women can be altered through the means of social media?

Lisa: “I love the way Instagram empowers bigger girls. I’ve seen many plus size models and influencers show off their figures in a confident way and they aren’t afraid to wear whatever they want, Its amazing.”

How do you think plus size fashion is viewed by people outside of the size range?

Lisa: “it’s easy for people who are slim to have a negative opinion on curvy girls because that’s what society has taught us to believe. I think many people think it’s wrong to love your body and your imperfections, it’s kind of strange to associate the word beautiful with being overweight.”

Do you think the fashion industry needs to focus more on a diverse range of body types and do you think it will have a positive or negative impact on the future of the industry?

Lisa: “Yes, it does. It should be about embracing everyone, imperfections and all. The world would be a boring place if everyone was the same. It will have a positive impact on the future of the industry because people will feel acceptance for who they are.”

It is refreshing to see a woman comfortable in her own skin and wearing whatever clothing she chooses then posting them freely on social media and spreading the message that every woman is worthy enough to respect her personal opinion and brave enough to juxtapose with the magazine covers we see on a daily basis.

Photography/styling/direction/visuals/Interview by Amy Boyd (@amyboydphotog)

Posted on

‘My boobs of burden’ – The struggles of growing up with a fuller bust

 

With the numbers of mental health issues on the rise, 19-year-old, Chloe Spedding from Newcastle explains the struggles she faced growing up with a fuller bust and how this has affected her confidence and self-esteem growing up.

 

What was it like growing up with a fuller bust?

I struggled with finding my fashion sense for ages so ended up hiding myself behind big clothes and baggy tops for a few years in high school. I felt awkward at house parties when I was younger because if I didn’t wear low cut tops I didn’t feel pretty but whenever I did it was the only attention I would get off young boys taking the mick out of big boobs. I also struggled with trying to buy clothes like my friends to fit in but ended up feeling insecure because they didn’t fit me like they would fit them.

Was there a specific moment that you realised that you were treated differently because of your fuller bust?

Yes! I remember this moment so clearly, I remember always feeling a need and pressure during high school to look nice and to dress like all my friends did. Which is wrong now I think about it, but I thought I’d fit in more with the other girls if I was more like them. So I would go out and buy short skirts and low cut tops like everyone else was wearing even though I knew my parents would not approve. So when I actually came round to wearing them, I tried to sneak out of the house without them noticing. Of course, my mam would always spot me somehow and she said something to me once that stuck with me for a very long time. She kind of gave me ‘the look of disapproval’ said ‘are you sure you don’t want to put a vest under that top? Or maybe put a cardi on?’ and I just remember thinking how unfair it was and wondering why there was such a big problem with having my cleavage on show. I mean, I now know why she asked those questions because as I’ve grown older I have faced the consequences of having cleavage on show, the stares, the sly comments. So, I guess my mam was just looking out for me, but it’s a shame that society has put this negative stigma onto women’s bodies. I shouldn’t have to feel ashamed or self-conscious of my body, but sadly I do.

 

Do you feel self-conscious going out in outfits that may seem provocative simply because there aren’t tops that fit both your bust and waist?

Yeah, I always feel embarrassed, like I hide them in some pictures and wear coats sometimes because I just feel like I get unnecessary attention. I hate it.

What annoys you about having a fuller bust?

Oh, this is my life defined! My boobs are a burden, literally. I hate how I can’t buy bras from most normal shops eg. Topshop H&M, Urban Outfitters, tops fit in a way that makes me look bigger than I am because my boobs make the tops stick out.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted on

Society framed us in clothing sizes. Can we be positive?

Gabriele Kazbaraite interviewed three different size women’s to share their own experiences about body positivity and clothing sizes. With a twist of them spreading positivity about how they look in photo shoots.

It all depends on the upbringing – our perception of a human being, emotions, opinions and thoughts. Society understanding to the body image in the fashion industry or in life can be really judgemental. But at the end of the day is all about how your mind works and what do you think when you look in a mirror when you see yourself. CLOTHING SIZE – THIS IS NOT YOU!

Do you feel comfortable in your own body?

Gabija: Quote I live with: ‘I’d rather eat pasta and drink wine than be a size zero’ by Sophia Loren is the one I can relate most. I’m happy with the way I look and it’s not a big secret that I’m clearly not avoiding junk food or eat as a ‘student’. As long as I’m happy with myself everyone around me should be happy as well.

Have you ever had mental health issues related to body image?

Urte: When I was younger I thought that I have to change just because others think that I am not good enough for them and I have mixed feelings and emotions about how people see me when they talk with me. What I realised through years is that I should know what I want to be and it doesn’t matter what other people want I have to think for myself. So I wouldn’t call my insecurities and emotions as a serious mental health issue.

Have you ever been bullied in school?

Gabija: Yes. When I was at 8th grade two guys from the senior class was calling me ‘cow’ to be able to get my attention using the way I look. Is this how guys talks with girls?

Do you think that what person wears says a lot?

Deimante: In some degree, I don’t enjoy when people judge by what a person is wearing. It doesn’t tell the whole story, just what the person enjoys to wear.

Do you think that being framed in clothing size numbers by others have a huge impact on our lives?

Urte: No, I think that being framed into size numbers is normal because we live in a society that is constantly changing and it affects our lives just then when we need to buy something and we need to know our size. But as well as for some of the people clothing sizes and shopping can be a very difficult task, I know a lot of young people who suffers from anxiety, eating disorders and knowing their size in clothes doesn’t help them to have a good shopping experience or good mental attitude. So in another way, it does have an impact on our lives.

Have you ever wanted to change your body? If so why?

 Gabija: Of course there are times when I consider the way I look mainly because our society is hugely affected by social media continent. But at the end of the day, not those models from Instagram are winners but for me, because when I look in the mirror I love myself and the way I look.

What do you suggest for other people who might suffer from ‘fear’ to shop in-store mainly because of how they look and what people would think about them?

Deimante: I think, the main thing is to live for yourself and then you will be happy. And for people who have this fear, I suggest embracing what they have got already. Work on your mind and thoughts. Mental health is more important than you think. Be positive and embrace yourself!

Gabija’s shoot twist was to show how free and comfortable she feels in her own body. Deimante’s one was absolutely no makeup and natural beauty and Urte’s one was just simply happy in my own body. All 3 of them no matter how different they are was related to positive attitude and emotions.

Urte Ivoskeviciute ‘Happy in my own body’

Photography: Gabriele Kazbaraite

Gabija Petreviciute ‘Freedom’

Photography: Gabriele Kazbaraite

Deimante Narkeviciute ‘Natural Beauty’

Photography: Gabriele Kazbaraite

We all look different. People start comparing themselves with celebrities, bloggers, influencers and how they look in the same clothes. Especially younger people as we are. And this our problem. You have to understand that you do look different, every individual wears different clothes and has a different understanding and the same dress will look different on every single person. You don’t have to put a bigger size on let’s stay in our size and let’s embrace it! Clothing sizes don’t say anything about us as a person. Our society framed us but we can make difference and be happy!